e-book Secrets, Lies & Butterflies

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Got it! Enlarge Image. Zoom In. Zoom Out. No Reviews Write the First Review. Item : NA Format: DVD. Butterflies have been flying around our planet for over 50 million years, and today around 20, different species inhabit the globe. From egg to caterpillar to chrysalis to the winged insect, we follow their life stages, highlighting their survival techniques and the new science that is unlocking the secrets of their world and changing our view of these fantastic and yet fragile creatures.

Add to Wish List. Other Formats. Butterfly Collection. Secondary Subject: Biology, Life Science. Length: 53 minutes on 1 Disc. Rating: TV-PG. Copyright Year: Production Year: As Seen on PBS. Closed Captioned: Yes. Closed Captioned: No. Subtitled: Yes. Language Tracks: English. Aspect Ratio: 16x9 Widescreen.

UPC: ISBN: Country of Origin: United States. Content Warning:. Director: Ann Johnson Prum. Narrator: Paul Giamatti. Producer: Ann Johnson Prum. Writer: Janet Hess. NATURE: Sex, Lies and Butterflies Butterflies have been flying around our planet for more than 50 million years, and today around 20, different species inhabit the globe. Explore their astonishing survival techniques, including ? Through sophisticated macro-filming, look beyond the butterflies' bright colors and fragile beauty to follow them on one of the greatest migrations on earth.

I think they are a wonderful way to learn about the world around us as well as to see things that we might not otherwise have the opportunity to see. Write the First Review.


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Add to wish list. Select a wish list. Privacy Settings Inviting friends to a Private wish list will change your privacy setting to Group. Only you can see and add to this list. Only you and people you invite can see, comment, and add to this list. Anyone with a link can see this list. Cancel Add. Your Account. Manage Your Account. Wish List. Track Orders. Thanks again! I printed the spring out of TPU. Don't do that. I'm going to design one that works with TPU and post it here. Is the key suppose to fit completely over the pin on the catch guide? My key does not fit over the pin.

I have printed eveything except the spring. The spring file might be bad. I have tried it 6 times and it raises up wildly after about 3 layers. Can you resave it? Thank you Gillian. I really like this but I have given up trying to print it now. I just cannot print that spring. It's too thin and the layers just won't stick together. I've tried 3 times now and all have come apart. Also I tried the Key twice but that just came off the bed at around the halfway point both times even using glue and a wide brim on the bed. It looks nice but I just cannot print it as it is.

I'm using an Anycubic i3 Mega and have tried several different filaments i. I know, but I can't print the Key as it is anyway so there isn't much point printing the other parts if I can't get in it.

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The middle part alone takes around 11 hours and the top and bottom 6 or 7 each so it seems a waste of time and filament if I can't get the key and spring right. Thanks anyway. Can someone tell me where to find her? Thank you in advance and good day. This is great.

Thanks for creating this. Maybe you answered this already, but what layer height did you print with? So Im making this as part of a bigger puzzle, so the symbols that I'm putting on the face 5 panels need to be in a specific order. The center panel is the one with the wider slot in the back. The right panel is on the right side of it and the left panel is on the left side.

You can tell by the dovetail on the sides of those two panels. I had one of these wooden boxes when I was a teen. I loved that thing. I thought it was Japanese, but it's been so long, it's hard to remember the design on it. I have purchased your other design but am trying this one. I am having problems with the right side facing my printer curling upwards.

I have a college conver printer and am using the pla filament with rapture on the bed. I've tried different colors just in case. Oh, thanks! Sorry you are having troubles. I have not heard of your printer or the print surface, I searched on google but could not find any information. Can you tell me which part you are having issues with? You can try turning your fan off on the first layer or two which should help make it stick. If its curling up one one side this could be a indication that your bed is not level, make sure the bed is level and your first layer is low so its really squishing it on the bed.

Depending on your print surface school glue stick or hair spray might also help. If you have a heated bed I'm assuming its set at c. If all else fails, you should not need it, but you could always try a brim. Amazing design. Any advice? Its funny that you say this about the key because I read here that others have had issues with it but I have printed it in probably almost 10 colors and never had a issue until I tried this red and could not get it to print!

It would just curl up and did not cool very well. I tired printing two at a time with a large brim but it would still knock it over. I turned on vertical lift which seemed to help and I got one to print but the overhangs didn't look good so after almost ten try's I needed up making a gold key. I guess so.. Wish I had a better solution other then someone did do a easy print remix of the key. I didn't understand why people were having issues until it happen to me.

My kids all fight over who gets to "play " with it. I can't print them standing up. I want to print each one separately. Please put each lamella in a separate STL file. Thank you! Could You please provide two separate parts? I want to print them standing up for better looks of the surface and the lines on it. So whats the trick to get the little sliding peace on the front bottom to not be lose?

All my parts seam to fit perfict but the slider just flops around. I have this same issue with one type of filament for some reason. I opened the slides and mixed a small amount of super glue with baby power and put a dab of it in front the the large slide if its already assembled. Then let it dry and file the top of the dab down until the slide has the proper amount of friction to keep it shut. Is there certain pen brand the spring should be taken from?

I believe the spring I am using is too long. It bends out of track when the latch is closed. It will be only a matter of time when it will pop out completely. Just some sage advice on printing the spring: Sink it into the bed about one layer height, and also print it in vase mode. This vastly simplified the travels on my printhead. Also ABS is tougher, but darn hard to print with. It stuck well. Sorry for the delay, it fell thru the cracks. You can find a stl of just the butterfly in the files.

Your settings sound about right, but nothing special. Make sure your first layer height is correct and your extrusion multiplier is dialed in. I have made a bunch of these boxes so far and I haven't had to do any fitting. So, trying to print a remix of this on a Pico printer less than x x build envelope and I've run into a problem. It seems one piece to print isn't included, the strip along the front of the lid, do people print another set of 'front title' and take off the slide parts? It's a part of the lid already. There's no need to print anything more than the lid, for the lid.

I started printing this and every piece turned into a mess on the build plate. After much handwringing, I realized that the temperature settings were the problem. I reduced the temp on the build plate from degrees to 60 and raised the extruder heat to They are all now printing beautifully! I'll post a photo when I get it put together. I printed the spring in PETG and it worked great initially, but it has lost a lot of it's recoil over time. I did and mine works perfect i just had to snip off the last part of the spring since it was a little to long.

You use a length 1. Just put a little glue on it to hold it in place. I made 3 of them. The blank top and front tiles were much appreciated. I made a Harry potter one and an avengers one. Great stuff. I found that a spring from a standard ballpoint pen worked refectory for the unlocking mechanism.

I was going to but rorech saved me the trouble and made a really nice remix! I have an idea for my own version I might try someday when I get a little time but right now I have another project consuming my time. This is a very cool design. No problems printing the parts except the key. The first bows of the key are warping, so that the nozzle tears the whole key off the bed.

I tried on two different printers with different PLA. No way getting the key printed. It does not matter how fast I print. Any hints on that? Edit September 09, Finally I did it. Nor changing the slicer, neither experimenting with brim, raft or anything else worked for me. The only solution that worked was printing with support.

See the attached file for the position of the support. Hey, I had the same problem printing with PLA. I have around 6 half keys printed. Have you guys tried a brim with more then one layer?

Secrets, Lies & Butterflies : Susi Osborne :

I had a single layer brim fail so I switched to 3 layers and never had a issue after that. It was just as easy to remove it too. I've still have PETG fail though so it is a tough print. My advice, and this is what I will be testing tonight, is to print the keys with a multi-layer brim. Some slicers allow this as an option, my one Slic3r Prusa Edition does not , but if not you can set a multi-layer skirt with 0 distance to the object.

This is exactly what I tried some days ago. Same behaviour with this multilayer brim. I will try another slicer as soon as I am back from holidays. I am using S3D. My next go-to attempt was going to adjust the Z-Height adjust during the print when we get towards the top of the key so that the printer is not squashing the layers quite so hard at the top. You can do this on the Prusa using Live Adjust Z on the controller.

I also had the same issue. Key prints beautifully up to about Failed twice, where the nozzle toppled it over. Glad it wasn't just me! Which slicer did you use? I used S3D. I also use S3D. If I am back from holidays I will try another slicer just to take a look where the differences are. I am printing it with brim, large brim. The problem is not the warping on the "food" it is the warping on the bows.


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I had the same problem, I ended up switching slicers I went from Cura to Craftbot and that was enough to fix the issue. Also a raft worked better for me than a brim, but your mileage may vary. PETG will have less force and that will degrade over time. ABS will likely degrade over time also, but less so. Sorry I cant say for sure as I have not tried it. PETG might work best but I have not tried it. This box is awesome! I wish there was a way to have multiple configurations though for this box though. Both of my kids want one but then dont want the other one to be able to get into it.

Also there's two files for the drawer, noob question but whats the difference please? The stl's are designed to be printed as shown without supports. The top and the front titles are designed to stand upright to help eliminate layer lines and to get better details out of the butterflies. So the butterfly top stands on it's end?

Not flat? Trust me it will work out. All other orientations will require supports and the butterflies wont turn out as well. Thanks, what settings did you use? I tried to do the 'Middle' and it said was 1 day 6 hours just for that but the thin part at the front came off the bed. Thank you for any help. Hi John! My Mother in law got impressed with the box : I'm in vacation in Romania and in some souvenir shop in the middle of the Carpatos Mountains I found some very similar boxes wich were invented in Romania as the seller said Of course he got surprised when he saw i knew how to open it I really don't like commertial lieing people!

Excuse me for my english. Is there place for one more maker in your bussines??? Count with me :. Wow, that looks like a beautiful plate to visit! I wish we had mountains where I live but its pancake flat. Another user commented that the box originated from Hungary. If you follow the link in the description to the "Korean Box", I designed it from a box my grandfather purchased from Korea almost seventy years ago! I don't know if it originated from eastern Europe or Asia but either way its been around for a long time.

Its so much easier for us to make on our 3D printers. Mountains aren't, all the same, the ut picture are the ones I live next to now, the stevi is where I used to live see the difference. I just wanted to thank you for the supreme amount of effort you have put in to this design. It looks fantastic and I'll be printing it shortly for my kids. I think I'll modify it to have a Autobots logo on the top! Might I suggest updating the description with the filament and print settings you have used layer height, shells, infill etc.

One quick question, I have a Mk3 also. Do you use Sli3r Prusa Edition? It looks like you have it dialled in perfectly. Edit: I made a quick Remix in Rhino to have an Autobot logo on the top of the box for those that wanted it. I did use Sli3r on my MK3 to make the box in the picture. I spend most of my time designing things so I haven't been able to spend much time dialing in the printer.

I just started with the standard profile but made a few adjustments. I've been happy enough with the results so far. Personally I use MeshMixer, which is free, to do simple modifications to models. You can take any two models, scale and transform them, and then combine them into one.

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This print has blank tops included which you could modify. To create the customization files I would personally use Fusion , which you can get a free license for as a hobbiest for a 1 year period. It is a CAD style program, not a sculpting program. So you can write text or use sketches to generate your design fairly easily and export it as an STL.

Then import the customized design and the box top into MeshMixer and combine them. One of the most beautiful and fun prints I've ever done, thank you. Everything printed perfect first try, and fit in a single print on my Prusa Mk2S. It's almost a shame that it prints so beautifully in Elixir, as now I can't imagine printing it in anything more cost effective.

Thanks for the kind words! I love my Prusa too! I have not tried a polyachemy filament yet but the Elixir colors look like they would look really nice. Printed everything without a problem but struggling to print the middle section, the small stip at the front fails everytime and ends up coming loose and making the print fail, any ideas? Sorry to hear that! Sounds like you are having issues with that thin section sticking to your bed. What is your bed surface? Glass and hairspray normally work great! You could try a brim instead of a full raft, that might work. Anyways, good luck!

This is a clever design, and it came out well. Each required an hour of carving before the parts would fit. This may have been due to my extrusion multiplier or temperature, or the PLA itself. Whatever the cause, be aware that these are tight fits, so do anything you can to prevent material expansion into spaces.

I also printed with 0. Anyway, thanks for posting it. I've printed more then ten of these on two different printers and I had zero post processing. One other person commented that they had issues but it turned out that they had a bit of elephants foot so maybe check that. The pieces seem perfectly formed, and for example the flat parts fit together flat.

I also assume the slicer is smart enough to account for the nozzle width, and run the nozzle inside the wall location such that the outside of the wall is in the correct place. But I think when I print a single wall, it is typically quite a bit north of 0. I will adjust these down until a single wall is 0. I would like to get this printing well, because it is an awesome way to give a gift to somebody.

Who can complain about a poor gift, when it comes in an awesome puzzle box? This would enable me to give everybody super lame birthday gifts, saving me much time and money…. Maybe along that idea, redo the lid like a rounded top of a pirate chest? Would probably also look good to make the tiles go all the way around like they were wooden slats.

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I printed parts in two batches on a Lulzbot TAZ6 with 0. First batch took about 9. Then I printed the key and spring separately, both are quick. Key was about an hour, spring about 15 mins. Of course this will vary a lot depending on your slicer settings. Came out solid enough that way. I'd vote for a plain version and perhaps source files so I could put anything on it. I want to make one for my cousin who's badly into Harry Potter, and want to make one in a Harry Potter theme with a gold printed Golden Snitch hidden in it.

This thing is great! Ordered a marble filament and am currently printing 3 copies of this, will post pics when completed, but it is looking awesome! It looks like cookies and cream, but the pictures don't do it justice. Im very happy with the look of the prints in person. I should be done with my 3 prints by Monday and posting my make of it.

Printing at a slow 50mm per the filament suggestion. Such a elegant smart design!. I am for the pirate one two with skull and cross bones. Love this. I will have to make this.

Secrets Lies & Butterflies by Susi Osborne

You can print it without supports because the overhangs are so small as long you have proper cooling, assuming that you are printing with PLA. Thanks for sharing this design. My wife begged me to make this, and now shes so happy. The spring key is cool. Now son wants one Skull and bones vote here too. I'm waiting for everyone's suggestion then when I found some time I was going to pick the one I liked the best and make another version. So far it's the skull and crossbones. I have a Monoprice select mini V2. It has a mm x mm bed. Will this work if I scale it down? I love my V1 but I don't think this box will scale very well unless you change to a smaller nozzle, use something with a smaller diameter for the hinge, and find a smaller spring for the catch.

Playing with the orientation on the largest items like the top and bottom of the box, I can get them to fit in Cura if they're standing top by default is, bottom isn't and oriented diagonally, but having never printed things like that, does anyone know if it'll turn out ok at all? Also concerned that with something this tall, aren't the chances for it wobbling as it gets higher up all the greater, which would skew and ruin the layers? I know one time I tried printing something tall and relatively thin that's what happened though to be fair it was significantly thinner than this item and was on the default build-tak lite bed instead of the glass I have now , so yeah You won't have any issues if you rotate things diagonally.

I thought I tried this on my V1 but I still couldn't get the bottom to fit. As things get higher you can get more ringing but the top is not high enough or thin enough for this to happen. Awesome job and awesome print too for a MK3! You should post this on the Prusa FB group for others to believe what the machine can do ; Thanks for sharing! Thanks, I love my MK3!

I'm also a member of the prusa FB group! I did share it on the Pursa Print's group but not the main group. Feel free to share it! What layer height and infill should I use? It seems to ball up after the first bump. Everything else looks great. I don't quite understand what you mean by "ball up"?

I would suggest more shell's and a higher infill for the key but not to make it easier to print but so its stronger. Layer height would affect cosmetics more than anything, I printed at. You should print the key with a Brim to keep it from tipping over since such a small amount touches the bed.

I would print it with a brim 10 or so passes 2 or 3 layers high. Can I ask, how are people modifying the plain top and tiles? I see names etc in other folks makes.